Back to the Future
In order to move forward, we’re going to have to look back. We’ve gotten to the point in our culture where the rapid acceleration of progress, of science and of pure, unadulterated technology enables us to do almost anything. But just because we can do something, does not mean that we should do it.
When it comes to industrial agriculture, factory farming and logistical prowess shipping food across the country and the world, we’ve got to look back. We’ve taken things pretty far in this direction, and before we hit the point of no return with genetically-modified foods, nutrition-science engineering, and other, as yet unheard of Promethean creations, we’ve got to first accept that the results of all this "progress" have not been good.
One problem is there is a segment of the population that is not willing to accept this. We can either educate them or forget about them and do it ourselves They’ll thank us later. Many don’t want to be educated. I certainly did not want to. For years and years I resisted what my gut (and the extra pounds padding it) was telling me. That food is this country was seriously damaged. And not just food, but the culture of eating, of consumption, of convenience and of economy.
So if so much of the progress that’s been made has taken us back a few steps, what are some of the ways that we can move forward by adopting the methods and techniques of yesteryear!
Here are a few of the ways in which we can look back.
Rediscover Heritage and Heirloom breeds of animals and produce
Heritage breeds of animals "were bred over time to develop traits that made them particularly well-adapted to local environmental conditions." This is a great idea because it actually kills two birds with one stone. First, by raising heritage breeds, we are preserving that genetic diversity, while also raising the animals best suited to a regional climate. It dovetails so well with a locavore mentality.
Heirloom fruits and vegetables are grown from non-hybridized seeds that have been carefully conserved and passed down within families for generations. They often were bred for flavor and texture. Commercial tomatoes on the other hand, well taste and flavor aren’t exactly at the top of the list. "All the breeding in the country is for those type of tomatoes right now: thick skin, solid flesh so that they can be machine harvested and shipped all across the country."
Local, Local, Local
Before the industrialization of the food system, food sheds were all localized. Every city and town had its own farmers and ranchers that supplied the needs of that community. Small-scale butchers, dairies, fishmongers and other artisans kept the local community strong and well-fed. We knew who grew, raised, killed, in a word provided our food. If they got lax, we told them. And if they didn’t get better, someone else stepped in to do a better job. Now, we have no idea who is raising our food, how they are doing so, and where they are doing it. Transparency in food is so important.
"Their next project would mark a return to an earlier era—the late nineteenth century, to be precise—when quality ingredients were sourced locally as a matter of course, classic cocktails were mixed impeccably, and Germans ran many of New York’s better restaurants, like the Franks’ foremost influence, Luchow’s." That is from an article from New York Magazine detailing the goals and aspirations of the owner’s of Frankie’s Spuntino in Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn.
What are some of the other ways that American’s can look back in order to move forward and actually improve our food system and our cumulative health? I’d really like to hear what the community has to say. And I am hoping to get some really great answers that I will elevate into their own unique blog posts.
Great post, Zachary. I think it’s also important to remember that farmers have been innovative throughout the history of time, in terms of yield, variety, etc., so celebrating progress (when that is, in fact, what it is) is not a bad thing.
That said, I cannot believe the amount of different produce I’ve gotten from my CSA that looks like scallions, but have distinct, wonderful varieties of flavors. Local farmers are the ones holding onto (carrying the CSA-torch for?) these foods, ensuring that we will be able to eat them forever. Thanks goodness.
Lee, Thanks for the post. Of course you are right. Many kinds of progress have done indefinite goods. I should be more clear that the kind of progress I object to, and that we need to call out, is progress that ends up hurting society.
I think ultimately, feeding the US, and the world, will depend on the ability of farmers to cherry pick the best methods and techniques, some will surely be recent technological innoations, and some will be wisdom accrued through the ages, and tossed aside in the last 50 years.
Thanks again my brother!
Thanks friend, I meant to agree with you, and then add more of my own thoughts.
I do think you’re right about heirlooms and (of course), local foods.
I think it’s important for folks to REMEMBER their communities and to learn more about them. A relative who lives in a northern suburb of Detroit was surprised to hear that many people consider Detroit proper to be a food desert because the residents do not have easy access to grocery stores or fresh food. She is surrounded by more gourmet grocery stores than she or her neighbors would ever need, just a 30 minute drive north. It’s important for folks around the country to realize what their neighbors face in terms of access to healthy foods, and to mobilize their political will and force to help make changes and encourage economic development as it relates to health and food.
Sorry – hit submit before I was done! The point is: we’ve become quite isolated from the experiences of our neighbors and communities, despite being more connected – at least technologically – than ever. It’s time to look back to when we were more aware of our immediate surroundings, and to see how our neighbors fare in terms of food options and community health.
I could not agree more. One of the things that we can unearth from our past is a strong notion of civics and community. Somewhere along the way, the ties that bound our communities began to fray. Unfortunately, our society just went with it. Connecting to our neighbors is a way to respect ourselves, because they are part of our lives. Who would want to live in a place where they didn’t know, and i mean KNOW, the person sleeping ten feet away from them. Keeping communities connected to me is a positive consequence of reconnecting urban and rural dwellers. Thanks so much for the comment! I really appreciate the dialogue!
Excellent post. We are lucky to be living during a time of increased importance being placed on local food, and I can’t wait to see it develop even more. And it’s not a coincidence that this is happening during tough economic times. Now more than ever we need to know where our food is coming from, so we know where our money is going.
Zach,
About 15 yrs ago someone gave me an heirloom tomato…I’ve never looked back.
I *hate* those pallid things that restaurants & grocers try to pass off as tomatoes. My tomato could kick their tomatoes butt any day!
I’m hoping to convert our farm to all heritage seeds/ breeds in the next 18 mos or so.
Honestly, I believe for the food movement to work – people need to TASTE the difference. Our milk blows my mind with how delicious it is (I’m not just saying that for sake of argument – it’s really good!). Homegrown (or small farmed) potatoes are so good. Try Yukon Gold potato salad from local spuds. You’ll dream of it out of season, I promise.
Keep up the good work Zach. It’s nice to have you guys on the small farmer’s side…we appreciate you more than you know.
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Moe, Thanks for the comment and yes I agree that it is not unusual that all this is happening in a time of economic recession. People definitely want to know where their food dollars are going, and what it is supporting. Furthermore, the world has been in a period of massive flux, probably begun in the late 90′s as the internet and web spun up and people cbegan to realize how quickly their world was changing around them. Globalization also compounded many of these issues bringing them to the fore, even to the majority of middle class people. We can use the chaotic ambience and atmosphere of the world around us to focus and hone in on the things we want to change about the world. Getting back to a world where we know our farmers, we understand our food, and what it took to produce it, is one of the things I personally want to hone in on.
Zachary,
With all the talk about the supply side of our food system, from local sourcing to GMO crops and beyond, we as a community of thinkers and doers are spending very little energy on demand.
I know that in many places demand for local, sustainable foods outstrip supply, so why worry? It’s simple, at least in my mind.
While an increasing percentage of the population is waking up from a “convenience food stupor”, most have very little knowledge about what to do with real food. In other words, their “cooking instinct” has gone dormant.
We must awaken America’s cooking instinct, thus driving the type of demand that will be necessary for farmers, especially, to migrate acreage and investment toward providing whole and minimally-processed foods that Americans demand.
No need to look back, other than to find the key pieces that made for a healthy food system. Its full speed ahead.
Cheers,
Rob Smart
a.k.a., Jambutter on Twitter