The End of Food: Molecular Gastronomy And The Chef As Artist
Molecular Gastronomy heralds the end of food. It is no coincidence that the most celebrated, sophisticated and progressive direction that cooking and preparing food has taken in the past few years, is a dead end. It has no future. Earlier, I wrote a post that examined the latest work of the playwright Wallace Shawn, an avant-garde artist, who tackled the issue of sustainability. He did so by employing a dystopian future world, where food shortages, and the problems of sustainability, had ravaged the planet and our humanity along with it. What caught my attention about Shawn’s play is that he was coming from outside the food world. He is not a chef, or an advocate, or a farmer. He is an artist whose attenae detected serious problems with our relationship and treatment of food.
So now I would like to shift my gaze towards those with a more intimate relationship with food, as I feel that this will illuminate even further my ideas about the end of food.
The most celebrated chefs in the world, Ferran Adria (El Bulli), Heston Blumenthal (The Fat Duck), Wylie Dufresne (WD-50) and chef of the eponymous Parisian restaurant Pierre Gagnaire, are perhaps the most well-known practitioners of molecular gastronomy. There are others now, many who have emerged from the kitchens laboratories of these great artists. First let us define what molecular gastronomy is:
Molecular gastronomy is a scientific discipline involving the study of physical and chemical processes that occur in cooking. It pertains to the mechanisms behind the transformation of ingredients in cooking and the social, artistic and technical components of culinary and gastronomic phenomena in general (from a scientific point of view).
Well that is all well and good, but I think some pictures might help us understand Molecular Gastronomy.
Ok so now we have an idea how to define molecular gastronomy and some idea as to what its prototypical creations look like. But how does all of this illustrate the End of Food. Molecular Gastronomy concerns the manipulation of food, like all other types of cooking. Of course the depth and seriousness of the manipulation belie an agenda seperate than that of simply feeding people. Let’s look at some of the tools that these chefs use.
These tools enable chefs to extend their manipulations exponentially. They can smoke meat without a real smoker, and create a sorbet out of a whole lobster, including the shells. To get that extra lobstery taste! Calling attention to the ingredients, the constituent parts of the food, is the means. The agenda is to re-educate us. Manipulating taste, temperature, texture, even the chemical construction of food, are the tools with which practitioners of molecular gastronomy instruct us. And what they are trying to tell us is that we’ve reached the end of food.
As avant-garde chefs, molecular gastronomists have the skills of traditional chefs. They’ve usually cooked in all sorts of kitchens, in all sorts of styles. They’ve become experts, virtuosos. But they’ve gone beyond this virtuosity into the new. Consider this passage regarding Ferran Adria from Jacqueline Church, friend, blogger, photographer and cook:
He [Adria] is driven to help people experience the world through fresh eyes, a fresh palate. It’s not really about the science. The work of the atelier, even his food as ultimately presented, are merely his tools, a means to an end. That end for him is to break through our cynicism, our safe, jaded existence and be in a moment, an Innocent. To experience something in a new way, even if it is a thing as familiar as a pea.
I agree, but what does it mean to be an “Innocent.” It’s actually nothing more than a chance to start over, even if for a moment. To be a child again, with that sense of wonderment. After a lifetime of food, particularly in our western culture, the cynicism, the ordianariness which accompanies our attitudes toward food need a shock. They need to be refreshed, the reset button must be hit. In little more than five decades of industrialized food, we’ve decimated centuries of connections, intimate connections, to the food that sustains us. For most of us, food is only fuel. Not an end in and of itself. When we encounter molecular gastronomy, we are being returned to food. We are returned to earlier versions of ourself, past lives, as a Buddhist might say.
One chef I spoke to said that molecular gastronomy is dead. I agree. That is not to say that it won’t continue to be practiced and that its influence won’t be felt for years to come. I think that it will. But as an artistic mission, the idium is exhausted, but its a positive exhaustion. I say positive exhaustion because its mission has been fulfilled. By breaking food down, by illustrating what food really was, what it was made of, and what could be done to it once it was broken down, molecular gastronomists have returned us to an understanding of food before our cynicism set in. They’ve hit the reset button for us.
Really enjoyed this post. Thanks and very well written. Excellent use of photos
thanks courtney!!really appreciate that!
hmmmm.
Though I find the food and style an interesting visual; and from what I've tasted and tried- the food is good . . . but is that the shock our system needs. I had one of the best meals I had this summer yesterday- a simple caprese Salad with grape tomato from Hepworth farms . . .Yum; and small local ingredients. The shock of Waters style eating might be better for us!
Well written and fun to read.
Thanks Zachary!
Zach, very good post and well put together. My comment will probably not be. While I was reading it, I wasn't sure where you were going to end up–in fact, I was actually quite surprised by your conclusion and I think its an interesting idea.
I'm don't necessarily agree that avant garde cusisine is dead. As an aside, Ferran hates the term molecular gastronomy, he thinks that it conjures up images of scientists manipulating molecules, and to him, he is a chef that works in a kitchen not in a lab. Also he considers himself more of an artists than a scientists, so instead of using MG, I say avant garde cuisine–(mostly because I'd hate to make Ferran angry, its hard enough to get a table at his place). Though the last I heard him speak about it in an interview, he decided to call his style of cuisine simply– el bulli. (check out this interview with Jay Rayner at
http://www.guardian.co.uk/global/video/2008/oct… )
But anyway I think their are too many people just now learning about it and starting to practice it and experiencing it to say its fullfilled its mission and its dead–but I may be missing your point on that.
The other interesting thing about avant garde cuisine is that my friends often think that this style of cooking is anti-slow food (or profood). Which in someways I suppose it is. But as you have pointed out, the practitioners are trying to have us experience food in a new way and thereby actually reconnect us to food (I like that idea), which is totally consistent with slowfood/profood. And in fact chef's like Ferran and Wylie are very committed to getting the best in season ingredients that are locally grown. I suppose then that its ironic that to reconnect us with food, that they also have to use techniques and ingredients developed by the industrial food system.
Ben
I so agree. I've had a few molec gastro meals and they were all
fantastic exciting stimulating. I felt privileged to eat and
experience them. But yes a simple tomato salad from a local farm with
a good olive oil and an artisinal balsamic is all I need to get my
ecstasy. I think we can learn more from that.
Michael, Thanks for your thoughtful reply. Actually I agree with most of what you said, and struggled with some of the coherency in this post. I am glad you picked up on it, because I really just wanted a way to talk about it, without having to write another post on it. Haha. I don't think avant garde cuisine is dead either. The best meal I had was at Momo Ko, which is definitely avant garde and I think there will always be a place for that. And i think it will continue to illuminate issues for the public that is into that sort of thing. I certainly am.
On second reading, I should have made it clear that Adria and Wylie go to GREAT lengths to get the most local fresh and expertly raised produce, the same as a dan barber would. I mean, they may not exactly farm, but i should have made clear that these guys are as serious about sustainable local and FRESH ingredients before anything, because for what they do to food, it simply needs to be as pure as possible no?
Another point I wanted to make, but which I just didn't think belonged in the piece, (so really thanks again for the opportunity to respond) is that these chefs, by calling attention to the ingredients in their various manipulations, might be trying to remind us that some of these fabulous beautiful delicate things, won't be around for very much longer. I mean, when it comes to seafood in particular, there are things that we eat today, that we might not be eating in the future. By taking those ingredients through to their artistic fruition, it could be the kind of thing where they are saying HEY, LOOK AT THIS, SEE HOW GORGEOUS IT IS? GOOD, CCAUSE YOU ARE NEVER GOING TO EAT IT EVER AGAIN, etc…
I actually like that idea very much. What are your thoughts on that? Basically calling attention as a social cause, so that the consciousness level is raised…
It's “dead” only in the fact that it's been widely adopted, even if chef's and/or menu's don't advertise it. Although technically low delta-T cooking and sous-vide cooking may not be considered 'molecular gastronomy', their use is widespread, not just at places like WD-50. [It will often not be advertised, partially as a result of NYC DOH's crackdown on sous-vide, and somewhat ridiculous requirement that restaurants which practice it implement a full industrial-food style HAACP (Hazard Analysis & Critical Control Points) plan.] Vacuum sealers are also awesome for infusing liquors or fruits/vegetables, which is being used by many bartenders. Some of the hydrocolloids and enzymes have also been adopted freely, especially transglutaminase (e.g. Ssam's 'chicken fried chicken' creation). The PacoJet is also something amazing, allowing a restaurant to reduce waste and serve a multitude of ice creams/sorbets with very little storage space.
I think part of the proof that it has come of age is the exact fact that most of these processes and techniques are rarely advertised on menus.
I understand that many people are critical of it, but I love the creativity of their inventions, and think Ferran is brilliant. All chefs are artists, aren't they? They just choose to create their art in different ways. I do question the nutritional value of foods manipulated these ways, surely some phyto nutrients are being destroyed in the process. But that said, if only as a special treat and occasional restaurant visit, I'm sure we are not hurting ourselves by indulging.
i am not necessarily critical of molecular gastronomy, it is interesting that people have assumed that. I am looking at it from a sustainability perspective, as in why would someone manipulate something so drastically? To me, the reason they do this is to reawaken our eyes and other senses to what food is, what its made of, the different parts of it. And when you couple that with a conception that certain foods might not be around much longer it becomes compelling. Thanks so much for your comment Savory! And of course, if I can ever afford a meal like this again, you KNOW i will be there
[...] End of Food: Molecular Gastronomy And The Chef As Artist Syndicated from The End of Food: Molecular Gastronomy And The Chef As Artist.The most celebrated chefs in the world, Ferran Adria (El Bulli), Heston Blumenthal (The Fat Duck), [...]
I think any fad that has come in the food industry has lost most sustainability ex. Western California scene in the 1940's depicted small portion to plate ratio, it was ridiculous, but i think is some way we have to use extreme measures to counter the other extremes. Look at the majority of restaurants they place little value on nutritional or quality of food and more on the portion size. Was this fad sustainable not at all but perhaps it influenced in some way quality vs. quantity
In regards to molecular gastronomy, i believe that the extreme versions of this style aren't sustainable ex smoke foam that deflates slowly as you eat giving you a flavor/smell of smoke. However in any fad there is an extreme and a simple side. Molecular gastronomy can be simply ex. the study of how starch granules coagulate in a soup with protein or how flour takes away flavor from a sauce when too much is added. Maybe snail porridge won't last but on things for sure molecular gastronomy will never die and gives chefs a deeper understanding of how foods react with one another.
I think any fad that has come in the food industry has lost most sustainability ex. Western California scene in the 1940's depicted small portion to plate ratio, it was ridiculous, but i think is some way we have to use extreme measures to counter the other extremes. Look at the majority of restaurants they place little value on nutritional or quality of food and more on the portion size. Was this fad sustainable not at all but perhaps it influenced in some way quality vs. quantity
In regards to molecular gastronomy, i believe that the extreme versions of this style aren't sustainable ex smoke foam that deflates slowly as you eat giving you a flavor/smell of smoke. However in any fad there is an extreme and a simple side. Molecular gastronomy can be simply ex. the study of how starch granules coagulate in a soup with protein or how flour takes away flavor from a sauce when too much is added. Maybe snail porridge won't last but on things for sure molecular gastronomy will never die and gives chefs a deeper understanding of how foods react with one another.
A fine and fun article, however much I may disagree. I find that cuisine, as it is, seems stultified. Oh, we have added more and varied dishes from every culture on Earth now and enlarged the potential menu enormously. Chefs also now dare to mix this respectable ingredient with that risque one but in the end we have the same list of ingredients. We never truly see anything new. That is the end of food. It is the endless recombination of the same old ingredients, now matter how novel their seasonal usage. That year it is sage and fennel, this year it is cous cous and leeks but there is nothing new under the sun there. Molecular Gastronomy is what comes after food. It is the next step, the natural progression. It is the endeavour to transmogrify ingredients into a new food, a new thing we have not tasted or tried endlessly. To me, this is a case of perspective. Do you see it as the end of food and a flash in the frying pan or do you see it as the first step towards finding something new to satisfy the jaded tastebuds of the œuvre priveledged.
Hey Zach, I had lunch at el Bulli in 2000. Molecular cuisine is a tool in itself and was explored by some of these cooks in their desire to create new experiences. In my opinion the essence and the beauty of food will continue to reside in the quality and freshess of ingredients, and in the excellence and love in the preparation. The mere mention of “molecular” gastronomy or cuisine makes me tired as the concept has been overexploited and beaten down. I agree with you it’s over as a fad, but the techniques that came with it will probably be used here and there.
Unfortunately in Brazil where I live it is still much in vogue.
I think the most important aspects of food and molecular gastronomics is: nutritional value, taste, appearance, and price of every meal. Anyone can be a cook, one will create what one desires to taste. The end of food is not here yet, once molecular gastronomics becomes common knowledge for the general public; then it will end. As the system develops it becomes econimical to eat moderately while getting the most energy/nutritional value at a relatively cheap price. Food is everything, from farm to table to harness and master the art creatively and economically is a feat the human race is getting closer to. Taste is very valuable, happiness comes daily one meal at a time.
On the other hand, there is a list of edible things from earth that chefs pick from to cook with. Edibles paired with cooking methods, one gets a certain number of possibilities of what they can eat. I cannot fathom all of those possibilities. In this regard maybe it is coming to an end, but has that been calculated?
Seemingly ending in a question.
I remember reading this when you posted it this past summer.
The idea of molecular gastronomy and modern cuisine was top of mind this afternoon though after I made a joke about whether or not I could rub an ammonia treated burger patty on an e coli stained fountain machine in order to sterilize it. Obviously, a vulgar and ridiculous joke.
But a meat expert published a list of all the approved substances, synthetic and non-synthetic, which include the ammoniate process, that are allowed in organic food production http://bit.ly/4xgvCU
While perusing that list I came across ALL the chemicals that are en vogue in molecular gastronomy. The stuff that makes up meat glue, the stuff that gels and stabilizes, etc.
In other words, while folks are bashing the ammonia burgers nobody is questioning the gastronomists who are using chemicals on the same list. Who is to say one set of substances is better than the other? In the end, nobody really knows who is using what until they start digging for something.
I myself find molecular gastronomy fascinating and enjoy experiencing it but gravitate towards less “adulterated” or manipulated foods–quite the other end of the spectrum I guess. Kind of like your vine-ripe tomato and extra virgin olive oil example.
What did click after thinking about all this was how effective playing on people’s fears and emotions can be when pushing an agenda.
forgot to say…
would and could molecular gastronomy lose followers if many of them knew some of the processes that are used?
and is molecular gastronomy similar to the science that is behind the ability to craft a tasty (“over 1 billion served” might say) burger out of scraps?
I’ve seen glued-together beef tenderloins in the grocery for at least ten years and always looked the other way. But I’ve got to say the process by which this is accomplished is fascinating and not entirely unnatural. It’s also frugal and resourceful. The question that remains to me is, “is molecular gastronomy dead? Is it dying? Is it necessary in the modern world? Will elements of it trickle down to other levels of cuisine?
.-= art´s last blog ..On #Meatcamp™ and Civilized Food Conversation =-.