Photo by Kthread

The New Amsterdam Market was in full swing earlier today in downtown Manhattan. Utilizing one of the last blighted areas of Manhattan, the Old Fulton Fish Market, the NAM has become a roaring success, as evidenced by the crowds, the stunning number of vendors and the fact that so much food sold out. Who sold out today? Porchetta, Jimmy’s 43, Marlow and Sons, Saltie, and many more vendors.

But first, what is the New Amsterdam Market? From their website:

We are inspired by history’s most engaging public markets, which bring together commerce, place, and culture.

To be comprised of retail and wholesale vendors including butchers, grocers, mongers, farmers and provisioners, bakers and distributors, brokers, importers, and sellers of cooked foods, New Amsterdam Market will follow a local tradition, set by the market halls of old New York. Reaching their last zenith in the early 19th Century, emporia such as Fulton Market, Washington Market and Jefferson Market were lauded for the bounty and quality of their offerings, which attracted visitors from the entire city and far abroad.

Reinvented for our present time and needs, New Amsterdam Market will incubate a new and growing business sector: purveyors who source food directly from farmers and producers whom they trust to be good stewards of our land and waters. Centered in this Region – once called New Netherland – New Amsterdam Market will foster a renewed appreciation for our natural environment and its ongoing potential to nourish. And as true of public markets, New Amsterdam Market will be accessible to all, striving to diminish the economic, social, and educational impediments to sound nutrition.

The democratic and cultural vitality of public markets has long made this civic institution worthy of municipal and philanthropic support.

It would take a fortnight to describe all the vendors and their amazing products. Here is the full list of vendors should you want to salivate, though there will be plenty of opportunity below.

A Carnival Atmosphere

I love being a part of this scene. A true sense of community exists in places like the New Amsterdam Market, similar to farmers markets, but even better. People are happy to be there, open to conversation and eager to share what their digging (this being New York, they are just as happy to share what they don’t). To see so many vibrant  businesses engaged in enterprise based on sustainability, localism, deliciousness is inspiring. The other thing one cannot help notice is the youth of the vendors. Most are under 40, and I would bet a great deal are even closer to 30.

There is in fact, a carnival atmosphere to the New Amsterdam Market. There is a constant hum, of trade, of commerce, of enjoyment, of anticipation (try buying a piece of Clothbound Cheddar from Jasper Hill and not wanting to rush home and rip it open!) Families, couples, lots of children and dogs, hipsters, prepsters, obvious Brooklynites, even some celebrities. I saw more older people at the event today interestingly enough. Some may have been tourists, and I gotta say, if as a tourist I had stumbled upon the market today, I would be resting in my hotel right now very happy.

This atmosphere is nourishing in a way that differentiates it from farmers markets. In Manhattan, there has been such tremendous growth in farmers markets that too often I feel rushed and harried at farmers markets. Its a serious issue that Greenmarket should be combating now, before the problem starts turning people off.

But the New Amsterdam Market does not feel harried. It’s wide open, with lots of surrounding areas to get away from the scrum and chill out for a hot second. Personally, I ate my lobster roll sitting on the promenade with a view of the Brooklyn bridge. I’d love if they put some cafe chairs around for people to hang, or even some communal picnic tables. The communal tables would go even further in fostering a community.

Sustainable Food Vendors Are Hot

I found the vendors extremely helpful and generous both in informing and educating about the particularities of their business: where they are from, what they do, why they do it, their focus on locale, region, and seasonality. With a cool bite in the air, it was great to be reminded that there is amazing food being produced in the Northeast, which is, after all, the most populous region of the country. The fact that even in New York City, such amazing food is within our grasp is encouraging, especially because some see local foods as a movement of deprivation.

In fact, one can eat locally and never once sacrifice diversity or flavor. From local cheeses and milk from the Hudson Valley, Connecticut, New Hampshire and of course, Vermont. What else? Local jams, 5 artisanal bread bakers, an oyster stall serving up deliciously briny Peconic Bay’s, and 3 separate butchers. In fact there was a heavy emphasis on meat today with Dickson’s FarmStand, Fleischers, Marlow and Sons all with overflowing stalls.

STOP THAT LOBSTER!

By far, the big winner of the day was Luke’s Lobster, a new lobster roll shack in the East Village offering up fresh, sustainably-caught lobster and crab. I hadn’t been down there yet so was thrilled when I saw my first cartons of ruby red lobster being cradled by entranced customers. I had heard that the portions were huge, and in a town where some lobster rolls can get as high as $30, Luke’s $14 offering is refreshing.

The roll is lovely, perhaps not perfect, but overflowing with chilled, perfectly cooked lobster, so lightly seasoned as if Luke’s was secretly telling us that they have such trust in their lobster that they don’t want anything, save for a small squirt of warmed butter, interfering with their product. Right they are in getting out of the way of such delicious lobster. Buttery, with a slightly gummy texture, the lobster is richness personified. The fact that it is piled with claw, knuckle and tail meat an inch and a half high is the real delight. A Blueberry soda from Maine Root was the perfect accompaniment. No corn syrup in that, just fair trade certified cane sugar. Again, refreshing that Luke’s sustainable ideals extend to their partners. Just one more reason to believe that its not just a marketing gimmick, and that the philosophy of sustainability is deeply rooted.

It may be heresy, but I think Luke’s Lobster should get together with Jim Lahey over at Sullivan Street Bakery and have Jim create an artisanal lobster roll bun for Luke’s perfect crustacean. Speaking of Sullivan Street, their beautiful olive bread loaves were piled high in the bread pavilion, a whole set of stalls devoted to New York’s best artisanal bakeries including Fairway, Balthazar (technically in New Jersey) and Pain de Avignon. Screw Atkins, cause these were some serious breads. Balthazar’s Pain de Siegle was oatey, gluttenous (ha) with just enough tang to remind you this wasn’t no WonderBread.

Your Humble Blogger

I am already counting down the days to the next market date, currently scheduled for November 22^nd. I’ll be there eating, chatting and enjoying the re-emergence of an urban tradition, the Public Market. It was the way people interacted with their food 100 years ago. And based on what I’ve been seeing, and the growing crowds, it is the way people want to engage their food today. Bravo to the customers, Bravo to the vendors, and Bravo to the New Amsterdam Market.

All photos, except the first one, in this post are courtesy of Lexi Vandewalle, a photographer and blogger, who blogs at Ligthhearted Locavore. I am extremely grateful to Lexi for her generosity. Thanks!